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AprilAire 800 Whole-House Steam Humidifier, Automatic Steam Humidifier, Large Capacity Whole-House Humidifier for Homes up to 10,300 Sq. Ft., White
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Purchase options and add-ons
Brand | Aprilaire |
Special Feature | Adjustable Humidity Control, Digital Display, Auto Shut Off, Service Filter Indicator, Humidistat |
Color | Gray |
Filter Type | Steam Canister |
Floor Area | 10300 Square Feet |
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About this item
- BUY WITH CONFIDENCE This high output steam humidifier was designed with electrode technology and manufactured in the U. S. A. by Aprilaire – the inventor of the whole home evaporative humidifier, and the leader in indoor air quality solutions
- FULL COVERAGE up to 10,300 square feet in tightly built homes. Choose from 6 levels of output adding 11. 5 to 34. 6 gallons of moisture into the air per day based on voltage and installation
- AUTOMATIC HUMIDIFIER with dual sensors to monitor and respond to both outdoor temperature and indoor relative humidity to deliver optimum humidity 24/7 throughout the home – simply set it and forget it
- PURIFIED WATER NOT REQUIRED Electrode technology requires impurities in the water to promote the transfer of electricity. Water filtration is not recommended – minimizing installation complexity and operating costs
- HUMIDITY FOR HEALTH Aprilaire Humidifiers can help you maintain optimal humidity in your home of 40% – 60% which has been shown to reduce the incidence of respiratory infections and symptoms related to allergies and asthma by minimizing the formation of bacteria and viruses, fungi, and dust mites. In addition, you’ll feel more comfortable while also preserving items in your home susceptible to damage from changing humidity or dry conditions
Customer ratings by feature
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From the manufacturer
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Maintain Wellness Reduce airborne illnesses that can cause respiratory infections, asthma attacks, and allergic reactions by maintaining proper relative humidity in your home.* |
Lower Energy CostsHumidifiers can affect the “real feel” temperature in your home, which can prevent your furnace from working overtime. |
Home PreservationHelp preserve the natural beauty of items in your home that might be susceptible to warping, cracking, or other permanent damage due to low humidity levels. |
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Balance your home's humidity
AprilAire Whole-House Humidifiers balance your home's humidity to help improve sleep, reduce dry skin, enhance productivity**, and keep you protected against airborne viruses*.
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Purified Water Not Required
Electrode technology requires impurities in the water to promote the transfer of electricity. Water filtration is not recommended – minimizing installation complexity and operating costs. |
Automatic Humidifier
Dual sensors to monitor and respond to both outdoor temperature and indoor relative humidity to deliver optimal humidity 24/7 throughout the home – simply set it and forget it. |
Genuine Replacement Steam Canister 80
Designed to fit your AprilAire Steam Humidifier perfectly and to optimize the performance when changed once during the humidification season. |
AprilAire 800 Whole-House Steam Humidifier | AprilAire 300 Self-Contained Whole-House Evaporative Humidifier | AprilAire 400 Whole-House Humidifier + Automatic Control | AprilAire 500 Whole-House Humidifier + Automatic Control | AprilAire 600 Whole-House Humidifier + Automatic Control | AprilAire 700 Whole-House Humidifier + Automatic Control | |
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Customer Reviews |
4.1 out of 5 stars
12
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3.9 out of 5 stars
6
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4.3 out of 5 stars
308
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4.5 out of 5 stars
1,745
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4.6 out of 5 stars
784
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4.5 out of 5 stars
1,101
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Price | $879.99$879.99 | $598.49$598.49 | $299.99$299.99 | — | $267.09$267.09 | $349.99$349.99 |
Home Size Coverage | 10,300 Sq. Ft. | 3900 Sq. Ft. | 5000 Sq. Ft. | 3600 Sq. Ft. | 5000 Sq. Ft. | 5300 Sq. Ft. |
Water Panel/Canister Model# & Replacement Frequency | 80 Steam Canister, Once per Humidification Season | 35 Water Panel, Once per Humidification Season | 45 Water Panel, Twice per Humidification Season | 10 Water Panel, Once per Humidification Season | 35 Water Panel, Once per Humidification Season | 35 Water Panel, Once per Humidification Season |
Dimensions & Weight | 10.13" L x 7.13" W x 20.88" H inches, 23.0 lbs. | 14.38" L x 22.07" W x 12.43" H inches, 29.2 lbs. | 15.38" L x 10.25" W x 15.75" H inches, 10.0 lbs. | 15.63" L x 10.25" W x 13.0" H inches, 7.75 lbs. | 15.38" L x 10.25" W x 15.75" H inches, 10.0 lbs. | 15.91" L x 11.35" W x 18.0" H inches, 17.0 lbs. |
Humidification Type | Steam | Self-Contained Evaporative | Water Saver Bypass Evaporative | Small Bypass Evaporative | Large Bypass Evaporative | Fan Powered Evaporative |
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Product information
Brand | Aprilaire |
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Special Feature | Adjustable Humidity Control, Digital Display, Auto Shut Off, Service Filter Indicator, Humidistat |
Color | Gray |
Filter Type | Steam Canister |
Floor Area | 10300 Square Feet |
Operation Mode | Steam |
Product Dimensions | 7.13"D x 10.13"W x 20.88"H |
Item Weight | 23 Pounds |
Room Type | Whole-House |
Model Name | Humidifiers Steam |
Included Components | 6-foot Steam Hose, 7/8-inch x 10-feet Drain Tubing, Valves, Installation Instructions |
Voltage | 120 Volts (AC) |
Control Method | Touch |
Shape | Rectangular |
Item Weight | 23 pounds |
Manufacturer | Research Products Corporation |
ASIN | B0CM85KV9F |
Item model number | 800 |
Customer Reviews |
4.1 out of 5 stars |
Best Sellers Rank | #499,371 in Home & Kitchen (See Top 100 in Home & Kitchen) #516 in Humidifiers |
Assembly required | Yes |
Number of pieces | 1 |
Batteries required | No |
Warranty & Support
Feedback
Product Description
AprilAire introduced the first evaporative humidifier for forced air furnace systems back in 1954. Since that time, AprilAire continues to lead the industry in whole home humidification systems – including steam humidifiers. AprilAire steam humidifiers use electrode technology and are simple to install, operate, and maintain. With electrode technology, electrical current flows between submerged electrodes, resistance of the water to the electric current heats the water. The submerged electrodes are found in a replaceable canister. At the end of a humidifier season, the canister – including the electrodes, is replaced. No cleaning, no scrubbing, simply replace the canister and you’re ready for the next humidifier season. Electrode technology requires impurities in the water to promote the transfer of electricity. For this reason, water filtration is not required with electrode technology, minimizing the complexity of the installation and on-going operating costs. This unit will operate with water hardness between 3 and 36 grains – a very wide range. If reverse osmosis or deionized water is present, plumb the steam humidifier to a water line before the water flows through the reverse osmosis or deionization equipment. INCLUDED IN THE BOX: Installation instructions, steam humidifier, Model 62 automatic digital humidifier control with sensor, outdoor temperature sensor, dispersion tube, steam hose (6 feet), 7/8 inch drain tubing (10 feet), hose clamps, saddle valve, mounting screws, Model # 80 steam canister
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This Item AprilAire 800 Whole-House Steam Humidifier, Automatic Steam Humidifier, Large Capacity Whole-House Humidifier for Homes up to 10,300 Sq. Ft., White | Recommendations | dummy | dummy | dummy | dummy | |
Try again! Added to Cart | Try again! Added to Cart | Try again! Added to Cart | Try again! Added to Cart | Try again! Added to Cart | Try again! Added to Cart | |
Price | $879.99$879.99 | $334.99$334.99 | $449.99$449.99 | $26.49$26.49 | $104.99$104.99 | $199.50$199.50 |
Delivery | Get it as soon as Friday, May 17 | Get it as soon as Friday, May 17 | Get it as soon as Friday, May 17 | Get it as soon as Friday, May 17 | Get it as soon as Friday, May 17 | Get it as soon as Friday, May 17 |
Customer Ratings | ||||||
Comfort | 5.0 | 4.5 | 4.2 | 5.0 | — | 4.6 |
Value for money | 4.6 | 4.5 | 4.1 | 4.6 | — | 4.4 |
Easy to install | — | 4.2 | 3.7 | 4.8 | — | 4.4 |
Accuracy | — | 4.4 | 4.3 | 4.7 | — | — |
Sold By | Amazon.com | Amazon.com | Amazon.com | Amazon.com | Amazon.com | Unisys Tech |
capacity | 11.5 gallons | 17 gallons | 18 gallons | 17 gallons per day | 0.75 gallons | 35 gallons |
floor area | 10300 square feet | 5000 square feet | 5300 square feet | — | 0 square feet | 3500 square feet |
power source | ac | ac | ac | Corded Electric | — | Corded Electric |
material | Metal | Plastic | Plastic | Aluminum | Polypropylene | Plastic |
shape | Rectangular | Rectangular | Rectangular | Rectangular | Round | — |
weight | 23 pounds | 10 pounds | 17 pounds | 1.75 pounds | 1.5 pounds | 1.3 pounds |
Customer reviews
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Setup was a project due to needing a 220v line and water supply, but still a one day job.
I didn’t hookup the exterior thermometer yet, and not sure if it’s needed where I live. But probably will just for the sake of completeness.
Turns out the problem was with orthophosphates my municipality adds into water for lead control. It coats and isolates electrodes in canister, preventing it from performing as it should.
I did some research and found conflicting information on removal of orthophosphates. Some were saying carbon filter helps, some saying that the only way to remove it is RO system.
I decided to try the cheaper option and installed a carbon filter for ICE machines (without scale control - that's important!). And it worked!
As you can see from video, the current goes up to rated 11 amps, with no gurgling sound during operation, just quiet 60hz buzz.
Of you are planning to set it to 16A setting (default is 11A), make sure to use 10Ga wiring. This unit briefly overshoots the setpoint current. With 11A setting I've seen it go as high as 15A on canister fill/heat up. I am using 11A on 10Ga/20A breaker, so I am not concerned, but don't try to cheap out on wiring.
On question of power consumption. It always takes the same amount of energy to convert the same amount of water into vapor - that's the law of thermodynamics. The difference between steam and evaporative humidifier is in the source of energy. In evaporate, the energy is absorbed from the air, cooling your air in process, which is then reheated by furnace to keep the temperature at setpoint. In case of steam humidifier, it does not take aby energy from air, instead it is using electricity. So you are using the same amount of energy for the same humidification. The difference is in source of this energy - your furnace (which may be more efficient if you are using heat pump), or electricity, which is equivalent to emergency heat. If your furnace runs on gas, difference in cost of humidification depends on price of gas compared to price of electricity for the same amount of energy.
Reviewed in the United States on February 19, 2024
Turns out the problem was with orthophosphates my municipality adds into water for lead control. It coats and isolates electrodes in canister, preventing it from performing as it should.
I did some research and found conflicting information on removal of orthophosphates. Some were saying carbon filter helps, some saying that the only way to remove it is RO system.
I decided to try the cheaper option and installed a carbon filter for ICE machines (without scale control - that's important!). And it worked!
As you can see from video, the current goes up to rated 11 amps, with no gurgling sound during operation, just quiet 60hz buzz.
Of you are planning to set it to 16A setting (default is 11A), make sure to use 10Ga wiring. This unit briefly overshoots the setpoint current. With 11A setting I've seen it go as high as 15A on canister fill/heat up. I am using 11A on 10Ga/20A breaker, so I am not concerned, but don't try to cheap out on wiring.
On question of power consumption. It always takes the same amount of energy to convert the same amount of water into vapor - that's the law of thermodynamics. The difference between steam and evaporative humidifier is in the source of energy. In evaporate, the energy is absorbed from the air, cooling your air in process, which is then reheated by furnace to keep the temperature at setpoint. In case of steam humidifier, it does not take aby energy from air, instead it is using electricity. So you are using the same amount of energy for the same humidification. The difference is in source of this energy - your furnace (which may be more efficient if you are using heat pump), or electricity, which is equivalent to emergency heat. If your furnace runs on gas, difference in cost of humidification depends on price of gas compared to price of electricity for the same amount of energy.
I just installed this in my 2100 SF row home. Capacity overkill for a small house you say? Perhaps, but the slope and spacing of my ductwork would not allow for an evaporative style unit so I went with a serious upgrade. While I have started the unit up and it seems to be working fine here in PA we are just getting into the winter humidification season, so I’ll circle back in a few months with an operational review. I’m curious on performance of course but also somewhat concerned about power consumption per several ratings/reviews, so I will report back on those things later…
As far as the install goes, Aprilaire recommends installation by a professional HVAC contractor which is always excellent advice. I am somewhat technical and am comfortable with “intermediate” difficulty DIY projects and I didn’t really have any trouble with this. The photos capture pretty much the entire finished product. Here are a few notes:
1. Before I started anything I added that plywood panel so I would have an easy mounting surface for everything. Major win.
2. Water supply to the house is all PEX (and I don’t trust saddle valves…) so tossed that and connected directly to the Manabloc water panel via ½ in PEX and a Sharkbite ½ x ¼ ODT valve. The 800 manual calls for copper for the water supply but I checked with tech support and they said polyethylene was fine too. Not sure the water hammer arrestor was necessary with the plastic (flexible) supply line but I threw it in anyway.
3. I considered tying in the drain line to my existing HVAC condensate pump but decided to spring for a separate pump just for the 800 (Aprilaire 4856, about $100). Very glad I did as this simplified things considerably and I know the pump can handle the higher temperature condensate (vs the cold condensate coming off my A/C coils…).
4. For maximum flexibility I went with a new, dedicated 240V / 25A circuit, although I configured the unit to draw only 11.5A. Instructions on selecting voltage and amps are very clear in the instructions. Since my panel is in another room I dropped in a local disconnect switch right at the unit. 10/2 Romex wire is a PIA to run/handle (heavy, inflexible) but it’s what you need. Hardest part of the whole job was getting about 30 ft of that crap from point A to B without a clear line-of-site path… Worth the pain running the 10/2 though as I can bump up to maximum capacity (at 240V, 16A) if I need to, or if the electric bill goes through the roof I figure I can always swap out the breaker and reset for 120V without re-wiring anything
5. Unit came with the Model 62 automatic controller. Easy install in the return duct, and the wiring diagram was very easy to follow for tie-in to the furnace control panel and humidifier. One thing though - there doesn’t seem to be a dedicated spot to run the T-stat wires into the humidifier housing. No issue though the wire fits through the vents on the bottom of the housing and once inside it’s easy to route it where it needs to go and stay out of the way of other stuff. I got lazy and skipped the outside air sensor (significant challenge to get that where it needed to go for my location…) so I am set up for manual control. Probably won’t be as efficient but this is how previous humidifiers I’ve had control (just on/off based on the return RH) so I assume it will be fine.
6. No issues installing the steam dispersion tube into the supply duct (although I had to buy the right size hole bit). The aluminum tape around the panel is just for show – it’s tightly sealed without the tape I just like the clean look of it. One minor fail – I cut the stream hose just a little bit too short. See how it comes out of the housing at a slight angle? It’s supposed to come straight up for an inch or two before bending to help maintain a good connection at the canister. The good news is my slope from the dispersion tube back to the humidifier kicks ass. I think it will be fine but happy to see Supply House sells a 6 ft replacement hose if I decide to straighten this out later.
That’s my experience for the install; this was actually a fun little project to put in. Check back in a few months I’ll let you all know how it worked out.
3 MONTH OPS UPDATE
So far working very well, although we haven't hit the really cold/dry months just yet. One issue is that it only humidifies when the HVAC is running (obviously), so if it's not too cold and I don't need heat, the RH can drift down into the mid to low 30's which is not where I want to be. There is a relay you can add to deal with this automatically (the humidifier turns on the HVAC fan so it will humidify even without heat). The good news is you can also do this manually by just cycling your HVAC fan to run (the humidifier goes by the FAN signal, NOT the call for HEAT signal). I'm going to try it this way for awhile but if it ends up being a PIA I guess I'll add the relay. Oh and on the power consumption side I think I'm going to be fine running on the 11 amps setting, but I'm all wired for 25 amps so I can always crank it up if needed.
Reviewed in the United States on January 6, 2024
I just installed this in my 2100 SF row home. Capacity overkill for a small house you say? Perhaps, but the slope and spacing of my ductwork would not allow for an evaporative style unit so I went with a serious upgrade. While I have started the unit up and it seems to be working fine here in PA we are just getting into the winter humidification season, so I’ll circle back in a few months with an operational review. I’m curious on performance of course but also somewhat concerned about power consumption per several ratings/reviews, so I will report back on those things later…
As far as the install goes, Aprilaire recommends installation by a professional HVAC contractor which is always excellent advice. I am somewhat technical and am comfortable with “intermediate” difficulty DIY projects and I didn’t really have any trouble with this. The photos capture pretty much the entire finished product. Here are a few notes:
1. Before I started anything I added that plywood panel so I would have an easy mounting surface for everything. Major win.
2. Water supply to the house is all PEX (and I don’t trust saddle valves…) so tossed that and connected directly to the Manabloc water panel via ½ in PEX and a Sharkbite ½ x ¼ ODT valve. The 800 manual calls for copper for the water supply but I checked with tech support and they said polyethylene was fine too. Not sure the water hammer arrestor was necessary with the plastic (flexible) supply line but I threw it in anyway.
3. I considered tying in the drain line to my existing HVAC condensate pump but decided to spring for a separate pump just for the 800 (Aprilaire 4856, about $100). Very glad I did as this simplified things considerably and I know the pump can handle the higher temperature condensate (vs the cold condensate coming off my A/C coils…).
4. For maximum flexibility I went with a new, dedicated 240V / 25A circuit, although I configured the unit to draw only 11.5A. Instructions on selecting voltage and amps are very clear in the instructions. Since my panel is in another room I dropped in a local disconnect switch right at the unit. 10/2 Romex wire is a PIA to run/handle (heavy, inflexible) but it’s what you need. Hardest part of the whole job was getting about 30 ft of that crap from point A to B without a clear line-of-site path… Worth the pain running the 10/2 though as I can bump up to maximum capacity (at 240V, 16A) if I need to, or if the electric bill goes through the roof I figure I can always swap out the breaker and reset for 120V without re-wiring anything
5. Unit came with the Model 62 automatic controller. Easy install in the return duct, and the wiring diagram was very easy to follow for tie-in to the furnace control panel and humidifier. One thing though - there doesn’t seem to be a dedicated spot to run the T-stat wires into the humidifier housing. No issue though the wire fits through the vents on the bottom of the housing and once inside it’s easy to route it where it needs to go and stay out of the way of other stuff. I got lazy and skipped the outside air sensor (significant challenge to get that where it needed to go for my location…) so I am set up for manual control. Probably won’t be as efficient but this is how previous humidifiers I’ve had control (just on/off based on the return RH) so I assume it will be fine.
6. No issues installing the steam dispersion tube into the supply duct (although I had to buy the right size hole bit). The aluminum tape around the panel is just for show – it’s tightly sealed without the tape I just like the clean look of it. One minor fail – I cut the stream hose just a little bit too short. See how it comes out of the housing at a slight angle? It’s supposed to come straight up for an inch or two before bending to help maintain a good connection at the canister. The good news is my slope from the dispersion tube back to the humidifier kicks ass. I think it will be fine but happy to see Supply House sells a 6 ft replacement hose if I decide to straighten this out later.
That’s my experience for the install; this was actually a fun little project to put in. Check back in a few months I’ll let you all know how it worked out.
3 MONTH OPS UPDATE
So far working very well, although we haven't hit the really cold/dry months just yet. One issue is that it only humidifies when the HVAC is running (obviously), so if it's not too cold and I don't need heat, the RH can drift down into the mid to low 30's which is not where I want to be. There is a relay you can add to deal with this automatically (the humidifier turns on the HVAC fan so it will humidify even without heat). The good news is you can also do this manually by just cycling your HVAC fan to run (the humidifier goes by the FAN signal, NOT the call for HEAT signal). I'm going to try it this way for awhile but if it ends up being a PIA I guess I'll add the relay. Oh and on the power consumption side I think I'm going to be fine running on the 11 amps setting, but I'm all wired for 25 amps so I can always crank it up if needed.
One thing I didn't like about it was that the solenoid value was very noisy when stopping after refilling the canister. I just noticed now that the vendor had lowered the price significantly after I purchased it in Jan '24 :-(
Reviewed in the United States on March 24, 2024
One thing I didn't like about it was that the solenoid value was very noisy when stopping after refilling the canister. I just noticed now that the vendor had lowered the price significantly after I purchased it in Jan '24 :-(