Canon’s premier kit lens for their APS-C “crop” sensor cameras, the 18-135mm USM is a fan favorite for a lot of good reasons. It falls into the class of the “standard zoom”, having a fairly wide angle of view and an overall useful range of zoom. The standard zoom is almost always the most important lens to a photographer (or at least the most commonly used), and this one has a lot of advantages, but also some drawbacks, all of which will be covered in the review.
Pros, so many!
1. Versatile – A wide zoom range makes this lens useful for many situations. Landscapes, nature, sports, portraits, products, or just general use; it does a lot of work for one lens. It can cut down on lens changes or the number of lenses you will need to carry, due to that versatility. This alone makes it an attractive lens. Keep in mind that even though this is a “crop only” lens, the 1.6x crop factor still applies, making this effectively a 29-216mm lens. (It’s actually a little more complicated than this, but I want to keep it simple.) Just know that any lens you use on a crop sensor body needs to have crop factor applied, even if it is a “crop only” lens.
2. Good IQ –Sharp in the center, loses some clarity in the corners, possibly the best “kit” lens Canon has made yet for APS-C cameras. As with all “do it all” lenses, the IQ is not as sharp as it would be on a more specific lens like a 70-200mm or a 24mm, but it’s still good. The convenience of the zoom range combined with the good IQ makes this a winner for just about anyone with a crop camera. I also found it to be an overall better lens than the 18-55mm that usually comes with Canon crop sensor cameras. There is an older STM model too, and I will discuss that one in the comparisons/suggestions.
3. NanoUSM – This was the first lens to feature this fantastic new focusing system. It’s great for both sport/action shooting as well as video, offering snappy fast subject acquisition in stills mode and quiet and smooth focus in video mode. Putting it to the test, it delivered on all fronts. I wish they would use it in more of their lenses; currently only a few lenses use nanoUSM.
4. Image Stabilization, 4 stops – This is useful for when you are in low light situations, as it allows you to shoot at slower shutter speeds than normal. At 135mm, as per the reciprocal rule, you would need to shoot roughly 1/200 sec to avoid shake, possibly faster if you are not a very stable shooter. With 4 stops of IS, you can shoot as slow as 1/15 sec and still get a sharp photo at 135mm. At 18mm, as slow as .5 sec. That is a HUGE advantage over lenses that do not have IS, as it offers the potential to add as much as 16x the amount of light to a photo. It also works for video, giving you stabilized footage when shooting handheld. Note – IS does nothing to “freeze” a moving subject, you have to use a fast shutter speed to accomplish that. This is a common misconception I see from people that are still learning. It is only helpful for slow or stationary subjects when using a slow shutter speed.
5. Other stuff – Zoom lock for storage. Compatible with the PZ-E1 power zoom. Zoom and focus rings are smooth and easy to turn. 7 blade aperture creates 14 point starburst (awesome). Metal lens mount. Full time manual focus.
Cons. Most this info is for your information and not worth a star off. If I remove a star for any reason I will explain why. Otherwise, it is up to the user to know what they are getting and how to use it.
1. Price – Usually, I would list price as a “pro” for a lens like this. Full retail price of this lens is 600 USD, and while I do think that is a fair price it’s just too easy to get it for less than that elsewhere. Here are some of the ways you can save some money on this lens. You can bundle it with a new camera for 400 USD (usually the mid-range models or the 7D, usually not Rebels). Used, they are easily found for 300-350 USD, and you can find the bulk packaging “white box” versions for 400 or less. “White box” lenses are bundled with a new camera, but sometimes are made available separately by sellers; in most cases they are not even used, but you may or may not get a warranty. Refurbished they are around 350-400 (sometimes called renewed). These are all good ways to get this lens for less than the full retail price, making it an even better value. In these scenarios though, most of them do not include a warranty, so be aware of that. Bundling with a new camera or getting the full retail version is the only sure way to get a warranty. So if that matters to you, then that is how you do it. Even at 600 USD this lens does so much more than its price point, and compares well against lenses that are more expensive. It’s a good value even at that price, but I just can’t in good faith call that a pro when I see how often these are found for hundreds less.
2. Limited variable aperture – The bane of lenses like this, and also confusing to those that are still learning the game. What this means is that as you zoom in you lose light. So from 75-135mm (F5.6) you have roughly half as much light as you would have from 18-35mm (F3.5/F4). I’ll spare the science lesson here and just point out that this is common to zoom lenses, especially in this price range. Some zooms have a “constant aperture”, which maintains the same f-stop no matter what focal length you use. This makes those lenses harder to design, and as a result causes them to be larger and more expensive, and they usually do not have a wide zoom range either. I mention this so those who are not aware how this works can understand it. As long as you know how exposure works, you should be able to work around it. It is only meaningful when trying to shoot at the widest aperture settings; at F5.6 or smaller there is no change when zooming in or out. Not worth a star off, since it’s a listed feature and is common to this class of lens.
3. Plastic design – Not that this is a bad thing, but the majority of this lens is plastic (polycarbonate, which is nearly unbreakable, so it shouldn’t be a problem for normal use). This is done to reduce cost as well as lower the weight. In spite of this, the lens is still fairly heavy, much more so than an 18-55mm or 55-250mm lens. But it’s not so heavy that it’s a problem. Still feels solid in spite of the plastic design.
4. Focus by wire – This means there is no mechanical connection from the focus ring to the focusing gears. Instead, as you turn the focus ring an electronic signal moves the focus in “steps”. This is not as precise as mechanical focus, but it is not unusable either. I personally don’t care for it myself, and I don’t know even one shooter that prefers it over mechanical focus. I don’t do manual focus with this lens so it has never mattered to me, but if you do want to do manual focus you might not like it. Also, there is no focus window to assist in setting manual focus; the majority of lenses that use focus by wire lack this feature. The only lens I know that has one is the EF 70-300mm IS II, which has a digital one. I feel like they could have included the same on the 18-135mm. In fairness, it predates the 70-300mm, so maybe they hadn’t thought of it yet. I hope to see it more on future models that have focus by wire.
5. Crop only – Not really a con, I just want to get this info out there. The most common question I answer is “does this work with my camera?” This lens works on all Rebel models, all mid-range models from the 20D to the 90D, and the 7D. It does not work on the 6D, 5D, or 1D; sorry full frame users (for those cameras I would say look into a 24-105mm). It can be used on any of the mirrorless models provided you have the adapter that allows EF and EF-S lenses. In the case of mirrorless the full frame models can adapt this lens, but it puts the camera into crop mode.
6. Other stuff – 67mm filter thread, which means expensive filters if you are into that. 67mm is not uncommon, so you might be able share with other lenses. Does not come with the lens hood; a lens this expensive should come with a hood. Strong vignette when shooting wide open, easily corrected with software. Lens extends as you zoom, common on lenses like this, even the expensive ones. Not sealed against moisture or dust. Shouldn’t be an issue, since most cameras it is meant for are also not sealed.
Again, this is FYI; these cons are either part of the listed specs or are common to this class of lens.
Conclusions
This is possibly the most well-rounded kit lens you can get for any kind of APS-C “crop” Canon. The versatile zoom range combined with good IQ makes it a good value. Add in IS and nanoUSM and this lens is tough to beat for overall usefulness. I like that I can carry it to just about any situation that doesn’t require a longer reach or a faster max aperture and find a way to get a lot of photos in various situations. The variable aperture only seems to become an issue for indoor use, and even then only if shooting subjects that are moving fast, like sports. If you don’t have to shoot indoor sports very often then I would think you would be fine to just boost your ISO to get those faster shutter speeds. If you will be doing that frequently, I suggest something with an aperture of F2.8 or faster. Otherwise, the IS will likely be fine to counter low light situations where you will either have still subjects or ones not moving very fast, like at a family gathering, a museum, or similar situations. I didn’t really find a reason to take a star off this lens, as it does everything I would expect in a lens at this price. Five stars.
Other suggestions – I have a couple lenses here I would like to compare to the 18-135mm. Some are direct comparisons; some are suggestions for more specific situations.
1. EF-S 15-85mm F3.5-5.6 IS USM – This is an interesting lens. It offers high end L class optics in a more “affordable” package (L lenses can cost 1000-2000 USD, or more). I feel like for what it cost, you are better off with the 18-135mm. The 15-85mm does have better overall image quality and contrast, but not by so much that I would give up that additional reach. It has a wider angle of view (15mm vs 18mm), but I doubt it will be enough to be critical the majority of the time, even indoors. The 15-85mm is also a good lens though, so if you go that route it’s not like you are getting a bad lens. I just feel for the 800 USD that it typically cost new it does not offer enough over the 18-135mm. That is a 200-400 USD difference, depending on how much you pay for the 18-135mm. Granted, you can find the 15-85mm used for under 400, so keep that in mind too. I personally would take the 18-135mm every time.
2. EF-S 18-135mm F3.5-5.6 IS STM – I know this seems like I am suggesting the same lens, but I assure you I am not. This is the older model that uses STM focus. It is much cheaper; “white box” copies sell for about 300, and used copies I have seen as low as 150. Honestly, it’s still a decent lens. IQ is close to the nanoUSM model. Focus is the slower STM, so it’s not as snappy fast as nanoUSM, but isn’t so slow it’s useless, and is still quiet for video. If you are pressed for money but still want versatility, this is not a bad option if you can find one under 200 USD. Otherwise, I would say to save a little longer and look for a good deal on a used or “white box” nanoUSM model. Note – There are actually three versions of the 18-135mm, and each is identified by their focus motor. The oldest model does not list the focus on the lens anywhere, the STM model says STM on the front of the lens, and the newest version says “nanoUSM” on the side of the lens. I don’t recommend the oldest version, as the focus is noisy, slow, and not as accurate as either of the other models. The STM version is just all around better and can be found usually for about the same price as the original, if not within 50 USD. If you need to be frugal, you can probably make the older model work, but I would at least opt for the STM version if you can’t quite justify the nanoUSM model.
3. EF-S 17-55mm F2.8 IS USM – I am suggesting this for one reason; the constant F2.8 aperture. If you will be indoors and shooting sports or action often, then you will benefit more from the fast aperture of this lens than the reach of the 18-135mm. This is the best you can get for a Canon APS-C camera in the standard class with a constant F2.8 aperture. Price is normally 830 USD, but frequently keeps getting discounted to 550 USD on an instant rebate. That makes it cheaper than the 18-135mm sells for new, and used copies of the 17-55mm are around 400 USD or less. So for about the same money, you gain a fast zoom in the standard class. Ask any photographer and they will tell you that the standard zoom is their workhorse lens; the one that stays mounted on their camera more than any other. My 17-55mm practically lives on my 80D. Granted, there are drawbacks. The 55mm max range makes it less versatile, and the IS is not as good as the 18-135mm (3 stops vs 4 stops). But, the faster aperture makes up for that in cases where you can shoot at F2.8. The F2.8 aperture can be as much as 2 stops faster than the 18-135mm; that is as much 4x the light, allowing for faster shutter speeds in any given scenario, at lower ISO settings (the main draw of the faster aperture). It’s not really apples to apples here, since the reason you would get this lens is different from why you would get the 18-135mm. I would say if at least 30-50% of your shots will be indoors and action based (fast moving subjects), then the 17-55mm is where it is at. If you only shoot action sometimes, and mostly need the versatility, the 18-135mm is a better choice.
4. Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM – Same comparison as the Canon 17-55mm F2.8, only this lens is much cheaper. Price ranges from 300-350 USD new, and used I’ve seen them as low as 200, but usually 250. IQ is just about as good as the Canon; I think it’s splitting hairs in most situations. The Canon model has better overall focusing, in that it is more reliable (hits focus more often, doesn’t seek in poor light). I mention this lens only because if you really want an F2.8 zoom but can’t afford the Canon, the Sigma lens is known to work pretty well for its price. I prefer the Canon for the more reliable AF, but I have seen people use the Sigma with success too. Tamron also makes a version, but only the non-stabilized version has acceptable IQ (the VC model has soft focus and is overpriced for what it does). So the Sigma wins since it has OS with good quality IQ.
5. Tamron 18-400mm F3.5-6.3 Di II VC HLD – Another interesting lens. For around 550-650 USD new, you can have a lens that can do it all. 18mm wide to 400mm long covers a lot with one lens. Kind of hard to believe, right? Well, thing is, “super-zooms” like this have some notable IQ issues. They just are not sharp when compared to even cheap lenses, and the 18-135mm beats it at all relevant lengths and apertures (obviously it can’t match the zoom range, but within the same ranges the Canon is clearly the superior lens). It’s not even close in side by side comparisons; the 18-400mm just does not produce high quality images. But, and this is a big but, not everyone has the same needs or budget. For about what the 18-135mm retails for new, you can have one lens to rule them all. And some people prefer that added benefit over the IQ they gain from more expensive, multiple lens setups. For scale, the Tamron can replace as many as three lenses; 18-135mm, 55-250mm, and 400mm, just to suggest one setup. All together that setup can cost as much as 2000 USD or more, depending on the specific lenses selected. I personally don’t like super-zooms as I do not appreciate the trade off in IQ. But for those wondering why you would choose the 18-135mm over it, answer these questions - How much do you want to invest in lenses? How much does overall IQ mean to you? To most people IQ means lot, but then the price of lenses starts to add up. For some that makes it a different story. And in all honesty I have seen some pretty good images people have taken with the 18-400mm, at least good enough for it to be worth it for them. Me, I’ll take the higher IQ from a multiple lens kit. After all, what would be the point of an interchangeable lens camera if I only ever put one lens on it? It’s up to you if the trade off in IQ is worth the convenience of not having to change lenses and to only have to buy and carry one lens.
6. A note on full frame standard zooms – This would be the 24-70mm and 24-105mm lenses. While some like these because “they can also be used on a full frame”, I have to say that I really don’t like them on a crop camera. Mostly because 24mm after crop is 38mm effective, and that is not wide enough to serve as your standard zoom. In outdoor settings it probably is fine, but indoors the wide angle will not work in too many scenarios. I feel like the “advantage” of potential full frame use is a silly argument. You will be crippling what likely will be your go to lens for a camera that you don’t currently own (and might never) over top of the one that you do currently own. I have both crop and full frame cameras, and I never bother to use my 24-70mm on my crop bodies, preferring instead to stick to my 18-135mm or my 17-55mm, depending on the situation. The wide angle is the more critical end of the standard zoom, and 24mm just can’t fill that role on a crop body.
Keep in mind this is not a review of these other lenses, but rather a commentary on why or why not you might choose one of them over the 18-135mm. There are a lot of options out there in the standard zoom class, and I want people to be able to make the best choice for their money. Not everyone has the same needs or budget, and that is what I am trying to stress here. For the money, it is hard to beat the 18-135mm as your standard zoom/go to lens.
That’s all I got! All that is left is to check out the sample images. If you found this helpful then please remember to hit the helpful button, and thank you for reading my review!
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This Item  Canon Cameras US 1276C002 All-Round Lens EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 is USM (Black) |  |  |  |  |  | |
| Price | $599.00 | $1,299.00 | $388.49 | -12% $328.00 New Price: $373.49 | $149.99 | $199.00 |
| Delivery | Get it as soon as Friday, May 17 | Get it as soon as Friday, May 17 | Get it as soon as Wednesday, May 15 | Get it as soon as Friday, May 17 | Get it May 17 - 21 | Get it as soon as Friday, May 17 |
| Customer Ratings | ||||||
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| Picture quality | ||||||
| Sold By | Amazon.com | Amazon.com | 6ave | Port Hole Renewed | Global Camera USA | Amazon.com |
| lens type | Wide Angle, Normal, Telephoto | Wide Angle | Telephoto | Zoom lens | Standard | Telephoto |
| compatible mountings | Canon EF-S | Canon RF | Canon EF-S | Canon EF | Canon EF | Canon EF |
| lens design | Zoom | Zoom | Zoom | Zoom | Zoom | Zoom |
| focus type | Manual Focus, Auto Focus | — | Auto Focus | Stepper motor | Stepper motor | Auto Focus |
| minimum focal length | — | 35 millimeters | 18 millimeters | 18 millimeters | 18 millimeters | 75 millimeters |
| max focal length | — | — | 135 millimeters | 105 millimeters | 55 millimeters | 300 millimeters |
| fixed focal length | 135 millimeters | 35 millimeters | 135 millimeters | 135 millimeters | 55 millimeters | 1 millimeters |
| real angle of view | 74.2 degrees | — | — | — | 74.33 degrees | 0 arc minute |
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Reviews with images
A useful lens for Canon APS-C “crop” users
Canon’s premier kit lens for their APS-C “crop” sensor cameras, the 18-135mm USM is a fan favorite for a lot of good reasons. It falls into the class of the “standard zoom”, having a fairly wide angle of view and an overall useful range of zoom. The standard zoom is almost always the most important lens to a photographer (or at least the most commonly used), and this one has a lot of advantages, but also some drawbacks, all of which will be covered in the review.Pros, so many!1. Versatile – A wide zoom range makes this lens useful for many situations. Landscapes, nature, sports, portraits, products, or just general use; it does a lot of work for one lens. It can cut down on lens changes or the number of lenses you will need to carry, due to that versatility. This alone makes it an attractive lens. Keep in mind that even though this is a “crop only” lens, the 1.6x crop factor still applies, making this effectively a 29-216mm lens. (It’s actually a little more complicated than this, but I want to keep it simple.) Just know that any lens you use on a crop sensor body needs to have crop factor applied, even if it is a “crop only” lens.2. Good IQ –Sharp in the center, loses some clarity in the corners, possibly the best “kit” lens Canon has made yet for APS-C cameras. As with all “do it all” lenses, the IQ is not as sharp as it would be on a more specific lens like a 70-200mm or a 24mm, but it’s still good. The convenience of the zoom range combined with the good IQ makes this a winner for just about anyone with a crop camera. I also found it to be an overall better lens than the 18-55mm that usually comes with Canon crop sensor cameras. There is an older STM model too, and I will discuss that one in the comparisons/suggestions.3. NanoUSM – This was the first lens to feature this fantastic new focusing system. It’s great for both sport/action shooting as well as video, offering snappy fast subject acquisition in stills mode and quiet and smooth focus in video mode. Putting it to the test, it delivered on all fronts. I wish they would use it in more of their lenses; currently only a few lenses use nanoUSM.4. Image Stabilization, 4 stops – This is useful for when you are in low light situations, as it allows you to shoot at slower shutter speeds than normal. At 135mm, as per the reciprocal rule, you would need to shoot roughly 1/200 sec to avoid shake, possibly faster if you are not a very stable shooter. With 4 stops of IS, you can shoot as slow as 1/15 sec and still get a sharp photo at 135mm. At 18mm, as slow as .5 sec. That is a HUGE advantage over lenses that do not have IS, as it offers the potential to add as much as 16x the amount of light to a photo. It also works for video, giving you stabilized footage when shooting handheld. Note – IS does nothing to “freeze” a moving subject, you have to use a fast shutter speed to accomplish that. This is a common misconception I see from people that are still learning. It is only helpful for slow or stationary subjects when using a slow shutter speed.5. Other stuff – Zoom lock for storage. Compatible with the PZ-E1 power zoom. Zoom and focus rings are smooth and easy to turn. 7 blade aperture creates 14 point starburst (awesome). Metal lens mount. Full time manual focus.Cons. Most this info is for your information and not worth a star off. If I remove a star for any reason I will explain why. Otherwise, it is up to the user to know what they are getting and how to use it.1. Price – Usually, I would list price as a “pro” for a lens like this. Full retail price of this lens is 600 USD, and while I do think that is a fair price it’s just too easy to get it for less than that elsewhere. Here are some of the ways you can save some money on this lens. You can bundle it with a new camera for 400 USD (usually the mid-range models or the 7D, usually not Rebels). Used, they are easily found for 300-350 USD, and you can find the bulk packaging “white box” versions for 400 or less. “White box” lenses are bundled with a new camera, but sometimes are made available separately by sellers; in most cases they are not even used, but you may or may not get a warranty. Refurbished they are around 350-400 (sometimes called renewed). These are all good ways to get this lens for less than the full retail price, making it an even better value. In these scenarios though, most of them do not include a warranty, so be aware of that. Bundling with a new camera or getting the full retail version is the only sure way to get a warranty. So if that matters to you, then that is how you do it. Even at 600 USD this lens does so much more than its price point, and compares well against lenses that are more expensive. It’s a good value even at that price, but I just can’t in good faith call that a pro when I see how often these are found for hundreds less.2. Limited variable aperture – The bane of lenses like this, and also confusing to those that are still learning the game. What this means is that as you zoom in you lose light. So from 75-135mm (F5.6) you have roughly half as much light as you would have from 18-35mm (F3.5/F4). I’ll spare the science lesson here and just point out that this is common to zoom lenses, especially in this price range. Some zooms have a “constant aperture”, which maintains the same f-stop no matter what focal length you use. This makes those lenses harder to design, and as a result causes them to be larger and more expensive, and they usually do not have a wide zoom range either. I mention this so those who are not aware how this works can understand it. As long as you know how exposure works, you should be able to work around it. It is only meaningful when trying to shoot at the widest aperture settings; at F5.6 or smaller there is no change when zooming in or out. Not worth a star off, since it’s a listed feature and is common to this class of lens.3. Plastic design – Not that this is a bad thing, but the majority of this lens is plastic (polycarbonate, which is nearly unbreakable, so it shouldn’t be a problem for normal use). This is done to reduce cost as well as lower the weight. In spite of this, the lens is still fairly heavy, much more so than an 18-55mm or 55-250mm lens. But it’s not so heavy that it’s a problem. Still feels solid in spite of the plastic design.4. Focus by wire – This means there is no mechanical connection from the focus ring to the focusing gears. Instead, as you turn the focus ring an electronic signal moves the focus in “steps”. This is not as precise as mechanical focus, but it is not unusable either. I personally don’t care for it myself, and I don’t know even one shooter that prefers it over mechanical focus. I don’t do manual focus with this lens so it has never mattered to me, but if you do want to do manual focus you might not like it. Also, there is no focus window to assist in setting manual focus; the majority of lenses that use focus by wire lack this feature. The only lens I know that has one is the EF 70-300mm IS II, which has a digital one. I feel like they could have included the same on the 18-135mm. In fairness, it predates the 70-300mm, so maybe they hadn’t thought of it yet. I hope to see it more on future models that have focus by wire.5. Crop only – Not really a con, I just want to get this info out there. The most common question I answer is “does this work with my camera?” This lens works on all Rebel models, all mid-range models from the 20D to the 90D, and the 7D. It does not work on the 6D, 5D, or 1D; sorry full frame users (for those cameras I would say look into a 24-105mm). It can be used on any of the mirrorless models provided you have the adapter that allows EF and EF-S lenses. In the case of mirrorless the full frame models can adapt this lens, but it puts the camera into crop mode.6. Other stuff – 67mm filter thread, which means expensive filters if you are into that. 67mm is not uncommon, so you might be able share with other lenses. Does not come with the lens hood; a lens this expensive should come with a hood. Strong vignette when shooting wide open, easily corrected with software. Lens extends as you zoom, common on lenses like this, even the expensive ones. Not sealed against moisture or dust. Shouldn’t be an issue, since most cameras it is meant for are also not sealed.Again, this is FYI; these cons are either part of the listed specs or are common to this class of lens.ConclusionsThis is possibly the most well-rounded kit lens you can get for any kind of APS-C “crop” Canon. The versatile zoom range combined with good IQ makes it a good value. Add in IS and nanoUSM and this lens is tough to beat for overall usefulness. I like that I can carry it to just about any situation that doesn’t require a longer reach or a faster max aperture and find a way to get a lot of photos in various situations. The variable aperture only seems to become an issue for indoor use, and even then only if shooting subjects that are moving fast, like sports. If you don’t have to shoot indoor sports very often then I would think you would be fine to just boost your ISO to get those faster shutter speeds. If you will be doing that frequently, I suggest something with an aperture of F2.8 or faster. Otherwise, the IS will likely be fine to counter low light situations where you will either have still subjects or ones not moving very fast, like at a family gathering, a museum, or similar situations. I didn’t really find a reason to take a star off this lens, as it does everything I would expect in a lens at this price. Five stars.Other suggestions – I have a couple lenses here I would like to compare to the 18-135mm. Some are direct comparisons; some are suggestions for more specific situations.1. EF-S 15-85mm F3.5-5.6 IS USM – This is an interesting lens. It offers high end L class optics in a more “affordable” package (L lenses can cost 1000-2000 USD, or more). I feel like for what it cost, you are better off with the 18-135mm. The 15-85mm does have better overall image quality and contrast, but not by so much that I would give up that additional reach. It has a wider angle of view (15mm vs 18mm), but I doubt it will be enough to be critical the majority of the time, even indoors. The 15-85mm is also a good lens though, so if you go that route it’s not like you are getting a bad lens. I just feel for the 800 USD that it typically cost new it does not offer enough over the 18-135mm. That is a 200-400 USD difference, depending on how much you pay for the 18-135mm. Granted, you can find the 15-85mm used for under 400, so keep that in mind too. I personally would take the 18-135mm every time.2. EF-S 18-135mm F3.5-5.6 IS STM – I know this seems like I am suggesting the same lens, but I assure you I am not. This is the older model that uses STM focus. It is much cheaper; “white box” copies sell for about 300, and used copies I have seen as low as 150. Honestly, it’s still a decent lens. IQ is close to the nanoUSM model. Focus is the slower STM, so it’s not as snappy fast as nanoUSM, but isn’t so slow it’s useless, and is still quiet for video. If you are pressed for money but still want versatility, this is not a bad option if you can find one under 200 USD. Otherwise, I would say to save a little longer and look for a good deal on a used or “white box” nanoUSM model. Note – There are actually three versions of the 18-135mm, and each is identified by their focus motor. The oldest model does not list the focus on the lens anywhere, the STM model says STM on the front of the lens, and the newest version says “nanoUSM” on the side of the lens. I don’t recommend the oldest version, as the focus is noisy, slow, and not as accurate as either of the other models. The STM version is just all around better and can be found usually for about the same price as the original, if not within 50 USD. If you need to be frugal, you can probably make the older model work, but I would at least opt for the STM version if you can’t quite justify the nanoUSM model.3. EF-S 17-55mm F2.8 IS USM – I am suggesting this for one reason; the constant F2.8 aperture. If you will be indoors and shooting sports or action often, then you will benefit more from the fast aperture of this lens than the reach of the 18-135mm. This is the best you can get for a Canon APS-C camera in the standard class with a constant F2.8 aperture. Price is normally 830 USD, but frequently keeps getting discounted to 550 USD on an instant rebate. That makes it cheaper than the 18-135mm sells for new, and used copies of the 17-55mm are around 400 USD or less. So for about the same money, you gain a fast zoom in the standard class. Ask any photographer and they will tell you that the standard zoom is their workhorse lens; the one that stays mounted on their camera more than any other. My 17-55mm practically lives on my 80D. Granted, there are drawbacks. The 55mm max range makes it less versatile, and the IS is not as good as the 18-135mm (3 stops vs 4 stops). But, the faster aperture makes up for that in cases where you can shoot at F2.8. The F2.8 aperture can be as much as 2 stops faster than the 18-135mm; that is as much 4x the light, allowing for faster shutter speeds in any given scenario, at lower ISO settings (the main draw of the faster aperture). It’s not really apples to apples here, since the reason you would get this lens is different from why you would get the 18-135mm. I would say if at least 30-50% of your shots will be indoors and action based (fast moving subjects), then the 17-55mm is where it is at. If you only shoot action sometimes, and mostly need the versatility, the 18-135mm is a better choice.4. Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM – Same comparison as the Canon 17-55mm F2.8, only this lens is much cheaper. Price ranges from 300-350 USD new, and used I’ve seen them as low as 200, but usually 250. IQ is just about as good as the Canon; I think it’s splitting hairs in most situations. The Canon model has better overall focusing, in that it is more reliable (hits focus more often, doesn’t seek in poor light). I mention this lens only because if you really want an F2.8 zoom but can’t afford the Canon, the Sigma lens is known to work pretty well for its price. I prefer the Canon for the more reliable AF, but I have seen people use the Sigma with success too. Tamron also makes a version, but only the non-stabilized version has acceptable IQ (the VC model has soft focus and is overpriced for what it does). So the Sigma wins since it has OS with good quality IQ.5. Tamron 18-400mm F3.5-6.3 Di II VC HLD – Another interesting lens. For around 550-650 USD new, you can have a lens that can do it all. 18mm wide to 400mm long covers a lot with one lens. Kind of hard to believe, right? Well, thing is, “super-zooms” like this have some notable IQ issues. They just are not sharp when compared to even cheap lenses, and the 18-135mm beats it at all relevant lengths and apertures (obviously it can’t match the zoom range, but within the same ranges the Canon is clearly the superior lens). It’s not even close in side by side comparisons; the 18-400mm just does not produce high quality images. But, and this is a big but, not everyone has the same needs or budget. For about what the 18-135mm retails for new, you can have one lens to rule them all. And some people prefer that added benefit over the IQ they gain from more expensive, multiple lens setups. For scale, the Tamron can replace as many as three lenses; 18-135mm, 55-250mm, and 400mm, just to suggest one setup. All together that setup can cost as much as 2000 USD or more, depending on the specific lenses selected. I personally don’t like super-zooms as I do not appreciate the trade off in IQ. But for those wondering why you would choose the 18-135mm over it, answer these questions - How much do you want to invest in lenses? How much does overall IQ mean to you? To most people IQ means lot, but then the price of lenses starts to add up. For some that makes it a different story. And in all honesty I have seen some pretty good images people have taken with the 18-400mm, at least good enough for it to be worth it for them. Me, I’ll take the higher IQ from a multiple lens kit. After all, what would be the point of an interchangeable lens camera if I only ever put one lens on it? It’s up to you if the trade off in IQ is worth the convenience of not having to change lenses and to only have to buy and carry one lens.6. A note on full frame standard zooms – This would be the 24-70mm and 24-105mm lenses. While some like these because “they can also be used on a full frame”, I have to say that I really don’t like them on a crop camera. Mostly because 24mm after crop is 38mm effective, and that is not wide enough to serve as your standard zoom. In outdoor settings it probably is fine, but indoors the wide angle will not work in too many scenarios. I feel like the “advantage” of potential full frame use is a silly argument. You will be crippling what likely will be your go to lens for a camera that you don’t currently own (and might never) over top of the one that you do currently own. I have both crop and full frame cameras, and I never bother to use my 24-70mm on my crop bodies, preferring instead to stick to my 18-135mm or my 17-55mm, depending on the situation. The wide angle is the more critical end of the standard zoom, and 24mm just can’t fill that role on a crop body.Keep in mind this is not a review of these other lenses, but rather a commentary on why or why not you might choose one of them over the 18-135mm. There are a lot of options out there in the standard zoom class, and I want people to be able to make the best choice for their money. Not everyone has the same needs or budget, and that is what I am trying to stress here. For the money, it is hard to beat the 18-135mm as your standard zoom/go to lens.That’s all I got! All that is left is to check out the sample images. If you found this helpful then please remember to hit the helpful button, and thank you for reading my review!
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Reviewed in the United States on March 21, 2020
Pros, so many!
1. Versatile – A wide zoom range makes this lens useful for many situations. Landscapes, nature, sports, portraits, products, or just general use; it does a lot of work for one lens. It can cut down on lens changes or the number of lenses you will need to carry, due to that versatility. This alone makes it an attractive lens. Keep in mind that even though this is a “crop only” lens, the 1.6x crop factor still applies, making this effectively a 29-216mm lens. (It’s actually a little more complicated than this, but I want to keep it simple.) Just know that any lens you use on a crop sensor body needs to have crop factor applied, even if it is a “crop only” lens.
2. Good IQ –Sharp in the center, loses some clarity in the corners, possibly the best “kit” lens Canon has made yet for APS-C cameras. As with all “do it all” lenses, the IQ is not as sharp as it would be on a more specific lens like a 70-200mm or a 24mm, but it’s still good. The convenience of the zoom range combined with the good IQ makes this a winner for just about anyone with a crop camera. I also found it to be an overall better lens than the 18-55mm that usually comes with Canon crop sensor cameras. There is an older STM model too, and I will discuss that one in the comparisons/suggestions.
3. NanoUSM – This was the first lens to feature this fantastic new focusing system. It’s great for both sport/action shooting as well as video, offering snappy fast subject acquisition in stills mode and quiet and smooth focus in video mode. Putting it to the test, it delivered on all fronts. I wish they would use it in more of their lenses; currently only a few lenses use nanoUSM.
4. Image Stabilization, 4 stops – This is useful for when you are in low light situations, as it allows you to shoot at slower shutter speeds than normal. At 135mm, as per the reciprocal rule, you would need to shoot roughly 1/200 sec to avoid shake, possibly faster if you are not a very stable shooter. With 4 stops of IS, you can shoot as slow as 1/15 sec and still get a sharp photo at 135mm. At 18mm, as slow as .5 sec. That is a HUGE advantage over lenses that do not have IS, as it offers the potential to add as much as 16x the amount of light to a photo. It also works for video, giving you stabilized footage when shooting handheld. Note – IS does nothing to “freeze” a moving subject, you have to use a fast shutter speed to accomplish that. This is a common misconception I see from people that are still learning. It is only helpful for slow or stationary subjects when using a slow shutter speed.
5. Other stuff – Zoom lock for storage. Compatible with the PZ-E1 power zoom. Zoom and focus rings are smooth and easy to turn. 7 blade aperture creates 14 point starburst (awesome). Metal lens mount. Full time manual focus.
Cons. Most this info is for your information and not worth a star off. If I remove a star for any reason I will explain why. Otherwise, it is up to the user to know what they are getting and how to use it.
1. Price – Usually, I would list price as a “pro” for a lens like this. Full retail price of this lens is 600 USD, and while I do think that is a fair price it’s just too easy to get it for less than that elsewhere. Here are some of the ways you can save some money on this lens. You can bundle it with a new camera for 400 USD (usually the mid-range models or the 7D, usually not Rebels). Used, they are easily found for 300-350 USD, and you can find the bulk packaging “white box” versions for 400 or less. “White box” lenses are bundled with a new camera, but sometimes are made available separately by sellers; in most cases they are not even used, but you may or may not get a warranty. Refurbished they are around 350-400 (sometimes called renewed). These are all good ways to get this lens for less than the full retail price, making it an even better value. In these scenarios though, most of them do not include a warranty, so be aware of that. Bundling with a new camera or getting the full retail version is the only sure way to get a warranty. So if that matters to you, then that is how you do it. Even at 600 USD this lens does so much more than its price point, and compares well against lenses that are more expensive. It’s a good value even at that price, but I just can’t in good faith call that a pro when I see how often these are found for hundreds less.
2. Limited variable aperture – The bane of lenses like this, and also confusing to those that are still learning the game. What this means is that as you zoom in you lose light. So from 75-135mm (F5.6) you have roughly half as much light as you would have from 18-35mm (F3.5/F4). I’ll spare the science lesson here and just point out that this is common to zoom lenses, especially in this price range. Some zooms have a “constant aperture”, which maintains the same f-stop no matter what focal length you use. This makes those lenses harder to design, and as a result causes them to be larger and more expensive, and they usually do not have a wide zoom range either. I mention this so those who are not aware how this works can understand it. As long as you know how exposure works, you should be able to work around it. It is only meaningful when trying to shoot at the widest aperture settings; at F5.6 or smaller there is no change when zooming in or out. Not worth a star off, since it’s a listed feature and is common to this class of lens.
3. Plastic design – Not that this is a bad thing, but the majority of this lens is plastic (polycarbonate, which is nearly unbreakable, so it shouldn’t be a problem for normal use). This is done to reduce cost as well as lower the weight. In spite of this, the lens is still fairly heavy, much more so than an 18-55mm or 55-250mm lens. But it’s not so heavy that it’s a problem. Still feels solid in spite of the plastic design.
4. Focus by wire – This means there is no mechanical connection from the focus ring to the focusing gears. Instead, as you turn the focus ring an electronic signal moves the focus in “steps”. This is not as precise as mechanical focus, but it is not unusable either. I personally don’t care for it myself, and I don’t know even one shooter that prefers it over mechanical focus. I don’t do manual focus with this lens so it has never mattered to me, but if you do want to do manual focus you might not like it. Also, there is no focus window to assist in setting manual focus; the majority of lenses that use focus by wire lack this feature. The only lens I know that has one is the EF 70-300mm IS II, which has a digital one. I feel like they could have included the same on the 18-135mm. In fairness, it predates the 70-300mm, so maybe they hadn’t thought of it yet. I hope to see it more on future models that have focus by wire.
5. Crop only – Not really a con, I just want to get this info out there. The most common question I answer is “does this work with my camera?” This lens works on all Rebel models, all mid-range models from the 20D to the 90D, and the 7D. It does not work on the 6D, 5D, or 1D; sorry full frame users (for those cameras I would say look into a 24-105mm). It can be used on any of the mirrorless models provided you have the adapter that allows EF and EF-S lenses. In the case of mirrorless the full frame models can adapt this lens, but it puts the camera into crop mode.
6. Other stuff – 67mm filter thread, which means expensive filters if you are into that. 67mm is not uncommon, so you might be able share with other lenses. Does not come with the lens hood; a lens this expensive should come with a hood. Strong vignette when shooting wide open, easily corrected with software. Lens extends as you zoom, common on lenses like this, even the expensive ones. Not sealed against moisture or dust. Shouldn’t be an issue, since most cameras it is meant for are also not sealed.
Again, this is FYI; these cons are either part of the listed specs or are common to this class of lens.
Conclusions
This is possibly the most well-rounded kit lens you can get for any kind of APS-C “crop” Canon. The versatile zoom range combined with good IQ makes it a good value. Add in IS and nanoUSM and this lens is tough to beat for overall usefulness. I like that I can carry it to just about any situation that doesn’t require a longer reach or a faster max aperture and find a way to get a lot of photos in various situations. The variable aperture only seems to become an issue for indoor use, and even then only if shooting subjects that are moving fast, like sports. If you don’t have to shoot indoor sports very often then I would think you would be fine to just boost your ISO to get those faster shutter speeds. If you will be doing that frequently, I suggest something with an aperture of F2.8 or faster. Otherwise, the IS will likely be fine to counter low light situations where you will either have still subjects or ones not moving very fast, like at a family gathering, a museum, or similar situations. I didn’t really find a reason to take a star off this lens, as it does everything I would expect in a lens at this price. Five stars.
Other suggestions – I have a couple lenses here I would like to compare to the 18-135mm. Some are direct comparisons; some are suggestions for more specific situations.
1. EF-S 15-85mm F3.5-5.6 IS USM – This is an interesting lens. It offers high end L class optics in a more “affordable” package (L lenses can cost 1000-2000 USD, or more). I feel like for what it cost, you are better off with the 18-135mm. The 15-85mm does have better overall image quality and contrast, but not by so much that I would give up that additional reach. It has a wider angle of view (15mm vs 18mm), but I doubt it will be enough to be critical the majority of the time, even indoors. The 15-85mm is also a good lens though, so if you go that route it’s not like you are getting a bad lens. I just feel for the 800 USD that it typically cost new it does not offer enough over the 18-135mm. That is a 200-400 USD difference, depending on how much you pay for the 18-135mm. Granted, you can find the 15-85mm used for under 400, so keep that in mind too. I personally would take the 18-135mm every time.
2. EF-S 18-135mm F3.5-5.6 IS STM – I know this seems like I am suggesting the same lens, but I assure you I am not. This is the older model that uses STM focus. It is much cheaper; “white box” copies sell for about 300, and used copies I have seen as low as 150. Honestly, it’s still a decent lens. IQ is close to the nanoUSM model. Focus is the slower STM, so it’s not as snappy fast as nanoUSM, but isn’t so slow it’s useless, and is still quiet for video. If you are pressed for money but still want versatility, this is not a bad option if you can find one under 200 USD. Otherwise, I would say to save a little longer and look for a good deal on a used or “white box” nanoUSM model. Note – There are actually three versions of the 18-135mm, and each is identified by their focus motor. The oldest model does not list the focus on the lens anywhere, the STM model says STM on the front of the lens, and the newest version says “nanoUSM” on the side of the lens. I don’t recommend the oldest version, as the focus is noisy, slow, and not as accurate as either of the other models. The STM version is just all around better and can be found usually for about the same price as the original, if not within 50 USD. If you need to be frugal, you can probably make the older model work, but I would at least opt for the STM version if you can’t quite justify the nanoUSM model.
3. EF-S 17-55mm F2.8 IS USM – I am suggesting this for one reason; the constant F2.8 aperture. If you will be indoors and shooting sports or action often, then you will benefit more from the fast aperture of this lens than the reach of the 18-135mm. This is the best you can get for a Canon APS-C camera in the standard class with a constant F2.8 aperture. Price is normally 830 USD, but frequently keeps getting discounted to 550 USD on an instant rebate. That makes it cheaper than the 18-135mm sells for new, and used copies of the 17-55mm are around 400 USD or less. So for about the same money, you gain a fast zoom in the standard class. Ask any photographer and they will tell you that the standard zoom is their workhorse lens; the one that stays mounted on their camera more than any other. My 17-55mm practically lives on my 80D. Granted, there are drawbacks. The 55mm max range makes it less versatile, and the IS is not as good as the 18-135mm (3 stops vs 4 stops). But, the faster aperture makes up for that in cases where you can shoot at F2.8. The F2.8 aperture can be as much as 2 stops faster than the 18-135mm; that is as much 4x the light, allowing for faster shutter speeds in any given scenario, at lower ISO settings (the main draw of the faster aperture). It’s not really apples to apples here, since the reason you would get this lens is different from why you would get the 18-135mm. I would say if at least 30-50% of your shots will be indoors and action based (fast moving subjects), then the 17-55mm is where it is at. If you only shoot action sometimes, and mostly need the versatility, the 18-135mm is a better choice.
4. Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM – Same comparison as the Canon 17-55mm F2.8, only this lens is much cheaper. Price ranges from 300-350 USD new, and used I’ve seen them as low as 200, but usually 250. IQ is just about as good as the Canon; I think it’s splitting hairs in most situations. The Canon model has better overall focusing, in that it is more reliable (hits focus more often, doesn’t seek in poor light). I mention this lens only because if you really want an F2.8 zoom but can’t afford the Canon, the Sigma lens is known to work pretty well for its price. I prefer the Canon for the more reliable AF, but I have seen people use the Sigma with success too. Tamron also makes a version, but only the non-stabilized version has acceptable IQ (the VC model has soft focus and is overpriced for what it does). So the Sigma wins since it has OS with good quality IQ.
5. Tamron 18-400mm F3.5-6.3 Di II VC HLD – Another interesting lens. For around 550-650 USD new, you can have a lens that can do it all. 18mm wide to 400mm long covers a lot with one lens. Kind of hard to believe, right? Well, thing is, “super-zooms” like this have some notable IQ issues. They just are not sharp when compared to even cheap lenses, and the 18-135mm beats it at all relevant lengths and apertures (obviously it can’t match the zoom range, but within the same ranges the Canon is clearly the superior lens). It’s not even close in side by side comparisons; the 18-400mm just does not produce high quality images. But, and this is a big but, not everyone has the same needs or budget. For about what the 18-135mm retails for new, you can have one lens to rule them all. And some people prefer that added benefit over the IQ they gain from more expensive, multiple lens setups. For scale, the Tamron can replace as many as three lenses; 18-135mm, 55-250mm, and 400mm, just to suggest one setup. All together that setup can cost as much as 2000 USD or more, depending on the specific lenses selected. I personally don’t like super-zooms as I do not appreciate the trade off in IQ. But for those wondering why you would choose the 18-135mm over it, answer these questions - How much do you want to invest in lenses? How much does overall IQ mean to you? To most people IQ means lot, but then the price of lenses starts to add up. For some that makes it a different story. And in all honesty I have seen some pretty good images people have taken with the 18-400mm, at least good enough for it to be worth it for them. Me, I’ll take the higher IQ from a multiple lens kit. After all, what would be the point of an interchangeable lens camera if I only ever put one lens on it? It’s up to you if the trade off in IQ is worth the convenience of not having to change lenses and to only have to buy and carry one lens.
6. A note on full frame standard zooms – This would be the 24-70mm and 24-105mm lenses. While some like these because “they can also be used on a full frame”, I have to say that I really don’t like them on a crop camera. Mostly because 24mm after crop is 38mm effective, and that is not wide enough to serve as your standard zoom. In outdoor settings it probably is fine, but indoors the wide angle will not work in too many scenarios. I feel like the “advantage” of potential full frame use is a silly argument. You will be crippling what likely will be your go to lens for a camera that you don’t currently own (and might never) over top of the one that you do currently own. I have both crop and full frame cameras, and I never bother to use my 24-70mm on my crop bodies, preferring instead to stick to my 18-135mm or my 17-55mm, depending on the situation. The wide angle is the more critical end of the standard zoom, and 24mm just can’t fill that role on a crop body.
Keep in mind this is not a review of these other lenses, but rather a commentary on why or why not you might choose one of them over the 18-135mm. There are a lot of options out there in the standard zoom class, and I want people to be able to make the best choice for their money. Not everyone has the same needs or budget, and that is what I am trying to stress here. For the money, it is hard to beat the 18-135mm as your standard zoom/go to lens.
That’s all I got! All that is left is to check out the sample images. If you found this helpful then please remember to hit the helpful button, and thank you for reading my review!
A useful lens for Canon APS-C “crop” users
Reviewed in the United States on March 21, 2020
Canon’s premier kit lens for their APS-C “crop” sensor cameras, the 18-135mm USM is a fan favorite for a lot of good reasons. It falls into the class of the “standard zoom”, having a fairly wide angle of view and an overall useful range of zoom. The standard zoom is almost always the most important lens to a photographer (or at least the most commonly used), and this one has a lot of advantages, but also some drawbacks, all of which will be covered in the review.Reviewed in the United States on March 21, 2020
Pros, so many!
1. Versatile – A wide zoom range makes this lens useful for many situations. Landscapes, nature, sports, portraits, products, or just general use; it does a lot of work for one lens. It can cut down on lens changes or the number of lenses you will need to carry, due to that versatility. This alone makes it an attractive lens. Keep in mind that even though this is a “crop only” lens, the 1.6x crop factor still applies, making this effectively a 29-216mm lens. (It’s actually a little more complicated than this, but I want to keep it simple.) Just know that any lens you use on a crop sensor body needs to have crop factor applied, even if it is a “crop only” lens.
2. Good IQ –Sharp in the center, loses some clarity in the corners, possibly the best “kit” lens Canon has made yet for APS-C cameras. As with all “do it all” lenses, the IQ is not as sharp as it would be on a more specific lens like a 70-200mm or a 24mm, but it’s still good. The convenience of the zoom range combined with the good IQ makes this a winner for just about anyone with a crop camera. I also found it to be an overall better lens than the 18-55mm that usually comes with Canon crop sensor cameras. There is an older STM model too, and I will discuss that one in the comparisons/suggestions.
3. NanoUSM – This was the first lens to feature this fantastic new focusing system. It’s great for both sport/action shooting as well as video, offering snappy fast subject acquisition in stills mode and quiet and smooth focus in video mode. Putting it to the test, it delivered on all fronts. I wish they would use it in more of their lenses; currently only a few lenses use nanoUSM.
4. Image Stabilization, 4 stops – This is useful for when you are in low light situations, as it allows you to shoot at slower shutter speeds than normal. At 135mm, as per the reciprocal rule, you would need to shoot roughly 1/200 sec to avoid shake, possibly faster if you are not a very stable shooter. With 4 stops of IS, you can shoot as slow as 1/15 sec and still get a sharp photo at 135mm. At 18mm, as slow as .5 sec. That is a HUGE advantage over lenses that do not have IS, as it offers the potential to add as much as 16x the amount of light to a photo. It also works for video, giving you stabilized footage when shooting handheld. Note – IS does nothing to “freeze” a moving subject, you have to use a fast shutter speed to accomplish that. This is a common misconception I see from people that are still learning. It is only helpful for slow or stationary subjects when using a slow shutter speed.
5. Other stuff – Zoom lock for storage. Compatible with the PZ-E1 power zoom. Zoom and focus rings are smooth and easy to turn. 7 blade aperture creates 14 point starburst (awesome). Metal lens mount. Full time manual focus.
Cons. Most this info is for your information and not worth a star off. If I remove a star for any reason I will explain why. Otherwise, it is up to the user to know what they are getting and how to use it.
1. Price – Usually, I would list price as a “pro” for a lens like this. Full retail price of this lens is 600 USD, and while I do think that is a fair price it’s just too easy to get it for less than that elsewhere. Here are some of the ways you can save some money on this lens. You can bundle it with a new camera for 400 USD (usually the mid-range models or the 7D, usually not Rebels). Used, they are easily found for 300-350 USD, and you can find the bulk packaging “white box” versions for 400 or less. “White box” lenses are bundled with a new camera, but sometimes are made available separately by sellers; in most cases they are not even used, but you may or may not get a warranty. Refurbished they are around 350-400 (sometimes called renewed). These are all good ways to get this lens for less than the full retail price, making it an even better value. In these scenarios though, most of them do not include a warranty, so be aware of that. Bundling with a new camera or getting the full retail version is the only sure way to get a warranty. So if that matters to you, then that is how you do it. Even at 600 USD this lens does so much more than its price point, and compares well against lenses that are more expensive. It’s a good value even at that price, but I just can’t in good faith call that a pro when I see how often these are found for hundreds less.
2. Limited variable aperture – The bane of lenses like this, and also confusing to those that are still learning the game. What this means is that as you zoom in you lose light. So from 75-135mm (F5.6) you have roughly half as much light as you would have from 18-35mm (F3.5/F4). I’ll spare the science lesson here and just point out that this is common to zoom lenses, especially in this price range. Some zooms have a “constant aperture”, which maintains the same f-stop no matter what focal length you use. This makes those lenses harder to design, and as a result causes them to be larger and more expensive, and they usually do not have a wide zoom range either. I mention this so those who are not aware how this works can understand it. As long as you know how exposure works, you should be able to work around it. It is only meaningful when trying to shoot at the widest aperture settings; at F5.6 or smaller there is no change when zooming in or out. Not worth a star off, since it’s a listed feature and is common to this class of lens.
3. Plastic design – Not that this is a bad thing, but the majority of this lens is plastic (polycarbonate, which is nearly unbreakable, so it shouldn’t be a problem for normal use). This is done to reduce cost as well as lower the weight. In spite of this, the lens is still fairly heavy, much more so than an 18-55mm or 55-250mm lens. But it’s not so heavy that it’s a problem. Still feels solid in spite of the plastic design.
4. Focus by wire – This means there is no mechanical connection from the focus ring to the focusing gears. Instead, as you turn the focus ring an electronic signal moves the focus in “steps”. This is not as precise as mechanical focus, but it is not unusable either. I personally don’t care for it myself, and I don’t know even one shooter that prefers it over mechanical focus. I don’t do manual focus with this lens so it has never mattered to me, but if you do want to do manual focus you might not like it. Also, there is no focus window to assist in setting manual focus; the majority of lenses that use focus by wire lack this feature. The only lens I know that has one is the EF 70-300mm IS II, which has a digital one. I feel like they could have included the same on the 18-135mm. In fairness, it predates the 70-300mm, so maybe they hadn’t thought of it yet. I hope to see it more on future models that have focus by wire.
5. Crop only – Not really a con, I just want to get this info out there. The most common question I answer is “does this work with my camera?” This lens works on all Rebel models, all mid-range models from the 20D to the 90D, and the 7D. It does not work on the 6D, 5D, or 1D; sorry full frame users (for those cameras I would say look into a 24-105mm). It can be used on any of the mirrorless models provided you have the adapter that allows EF and EF-S lenses. In the case of mirrorless the full frame models can adapt this lens, but it puts the camera into crop mode.
6. Other stuff – 67mm filter thread, which means expensive filters if you are into that. 67mm is not uncommon, so you might be able share with other lenses. Does not come with the lens hood; a lens this expensive should come with a hood. Strong vignette when shooting wide open, easily corrected with software. Lens extends as you zoom, common on lenses like this, even the expensive ones. Not sealed against moisture or dust. Shouldn’t be an issue, since most cameras it is meant for are also not sealed.
Again, this is FYI; these cons are either part of the listed specs or are common to this class of lens.
Conclusions
This is possibly the most well-rounded kit lens you can get for any kind of APS-C “crop” Canon. The versatile zoom range combined with good IQ makes it a good value. Add in IS and nanoUSM and this lens is tough to beat for overall usefulness. I like that I can carry it to just about any situation that doesn’t require a longer reach or a faster max aperture and find a way to get a lot of photos in various situations. The variable aperture only seems to become an issue for indoor use, and even then only if shooting subjects that are moving fast, like sports. If you don’t have to shoot indoor sports very often then I would think you would be fine to just boost your ISO to get those faster shutter speeds. If you will be doing that frequently, I suggest something with an aperture of F2.8 or faster. Otherwise, the IS will likely be fine to counter low light situations where you will either have still subjects or ones not moving very fast, like at a family gathering, a museum, or similar situations. I didn’t really find a reason to take a star off this lens, as it does everything I would expect in a lens at this price. Five stars.
Other suggestions – I have a couple lenses here I would like to compare to the 18-135mm. Some are direct comparisons; some are suggestions for more specific situations.
1. EF-S 15-85mm F3.5-5.6 IS USM – This is an interesting lens. It offers high end L class optics in a more “affordable” package (L lenses can cost 1000-2000 USD, or more). I feel like for what it cost, you are better off with the 18-135mm. The 15-85mm does have better overall image quality and contrast, but not by so much that I would give up that additional reach. It has a wider angle of view (15mm vs 18mm), but I doubt it will be enough to be critical the majority of the time, even indoors. The 15-85mm is also a good lens though, so if you go that route it’s not like you are getting a bad lens. I just feel for the 800 USD that it typically cost new it does not offer enough over the 18-135mm. That is a 200-400 USD difference, depending on how much you pay for the 18-135mm. Granted, you can find the 15-85mm used for under 400, so keep that in mind too. I personally would take the 18-135mm every time.
2. EF-S 18-135mm F3.5-5.6 IS STM – I know this seems like I am suggesting the same lens, but I assure you I am not. This is the older model that uses STM focus. It is much cheaper; “white box” copies sell for about 300, and used copies I have seen as low as 150. Honestly, it’s still a decent lens. IQ is close to the nanoUSM model. Focus is the slower STM, so it’s not as snappy fast as nanoUSM, but isn’t so slow it’s useless, and is still quiet for video. If you are pressed for money but still want versatility, this is not a bad option if you can find one under 200 USD. Otherwise, I would say to save a little longer and look for a good deal on a used or “white box” nanoUSM model. Note – There are actually three versions of the 18-135mm, and each is identified by their focus motor. The oldest model does not list the focus on the lens anywhere, the STM model says STM on the front of the lens, and the newest version says “nanoUSM” on the side of the lens. I don’t recommend the oldest version, as the focus is noisy, slow, and not as accurate as either of the other models. The STM version is just all around better and can be found usually for about the same price as the original, if not within 50 USD. If you need to be frugal, you can probably make the older model work, but I would at least opt for the STM version if you can’t quite justify the nanoUSM model.
3. EF-S 17-55mm F2.8 IS USM – I am suggesting this for one reason; the constant F2.8 aperture. If you will be indoors and shooting sports or action often, then you will benefit more from the fast aperture of this lens than the reach of the 18-135mm. This is the best you can get for a Canon APS-C camera in the standard class with a constant F2.8 aperture. Price is normally 830 USD, but frequently keeps getting discounted to 550 USD on an instant rebate. That makes it cheaper than the 18-135mm sells for new, and used copies of the 17-55mm are around 400 USD or less. So for about the same money, you gain a fast zoom in the standard class. Ask any photographer and they will tell you that the standard zoom is their workhorse lens; the one that stays mounted on their camera more than any other. My 17-55mm practically lives on my 80D. Granted, there are drawbacks. The 55mm max range makes it less versatile, and the IS is not as good as the 18-135mm (3 stops vs 4 stops). But, the faster aperture makes up for that in cases where you can shoot at F2.8. The F2.8 aperture can be as much as 2 stops faster than the 18-135mm; that is as much 4x the light, allowing for faster shutter speeds in any given scenario, at lower ISO settings (the main draw of the faster aperture). It’s not really apples to apples here, since the reason you would get this lens is different from why you would get the 18-135mm. I would say if at least 30-50% of your shots will be indoors and action based (fast moving subjects), then the 17-55mm is where it is at. If you only shoot action sometimes, and mostly need the versatility, the 18-135mm is a better choice.
4. Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM – Same comparison as the Canon 17-55mm F2.8, only this lens is much cheaper. Price ranges from 300-350 USD new, and used I’ve seen them as low as 200, but usually 250. IQ is just about as good as the Canon; I think it’s splitting hairs in most situations. The Canon model has better overall focusing, in that it is more reliable (hits focus more often, doesn’t seek in poor light). I mention this lens only because if you really want an F2.8 zoom but can’t afford the Canon, the Sigma lens is known to work pretty well for its price. I prefer the Canon for the more reliable AF, but I have seen people use the Sigma with success too. Tamron also makes a version, but only the non-stabilized version has acceptable IQ (the VC model has soft focus and is overpriced for what it does). So the Sigma wins since it has OS with good quality IQ.
5. Tamron 18-400mm F3.5-6.3 Di II VC HLD – Another interesting lens. For around 550-650 USD new, you can have a lens that can do it all. 18mm wide to 400mm long covers a lot with one lens. Kind of hard to believe, right? Well, thing is, “super-zooms” like this have some notable IQ issues. They just are not sharp when compared to even cheap lenses, and the 18-135mm beats it at all relevant lengths and apertures (obviously it can’t match the zoom range, but within the same ranges the Canon is clearly the superior lens). It’s not even close in side by side comparisons; the 18-400mm just does not produce high quality images. But, and this is a big but, not everyone has the same needs or budget. For about what the 18-135mm retails for new, you can have one lens to rule them all. And some people prefer that added benefit over the IQ they gain from more expensive, multiple lens setups. For scale, the Tamron can replace as many as three lenses; 18-135mm, 55-250mm, and 400mm, just to suggest one setup. All together that setup can cost as much as 2000 USD or more, depending on the specific lenses selected. I personally don’t like super-zooms as I do not appreciate the trade off in IQ. But for those wondering why you would choose the 18-135mm over it, answer these questions - How much do you want to invest in lenses? How much does overall IQ mean to you? To most people IQ means lot, but then the price of lenses starts to add up. For some that makes it a different story. And in all honesty I have seen some pretty good images people have taken with the 18-400mm, at least good enough for it to be worth it for them. Me, I’ll take the higher IQ from a multiple lens kit. After all, what would be the point of an interchangeable lens camera if I only ever put one lens on it? It’s up to you if the trade off in IQ is worth the convenience of not having to change lenses and to only have to buy and carry one lens.
6. A note on full frame standard zooms – This would be the 24-70mm and 24-105mm lenses. While some like these because “they can also be used on a full frame”, I have to say that I really don’t like them on a crop camera. Mostly because 24mm after crop is 38mm effective, and that is not wide enough to serve as your standard zoom. In outdoor settings it probably is fine, but indoors the wide angle will not work in too many scenarios. I feel like the “advantage” of potential full frame use is a silly argument. You will be crippling what likely will be your go to lens for a camera that you don’t currently own (and might never) over top of the one that you do currently own. I have both crop and full frame cameras, and I never bother to use my 24-70mm on my crop bodies, preferring instead to stick to my 18-135mm or my 17-55mm, depending on the situation. The wide angle is the more critical end of the standard zoom, and 24mm just can’t fill that role on a crop body.
Keep in mind this is not a review of these other lenses, but rather a commentary on why or why not you might choose one of them over the 18-135mm. There are a lot of options out there in the standard zoom class, and I want people to be able to make the best choice for their money. Not everyone has the same needs or budget, and that is what I am trying to stress here. For the money, it is hard to beat the 18-135mm as your standard zoom/go to lens.
That’s all I got! All that is left is to check out the sample images. If you found this helpful then please remember to hit the helpful button, and thank you for reading my review!
Images in this review
Reviewed in the United States on June 5, 2017
Reviewed in the United States on June 3, 2022
Reviewed in the United States on August 10, 2020
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